Start with the job, not the badge
Almost all kei trucks share the same 660cc class limits and similar payload. The meaningful differences are drivetrain, body type, cab size and parts availability where you live. Choose for the work first and the badge second.
Rust is the main risk
Trucks from snow-belt prefectures see heavy road salt. The rear cross-member, bed floor, sills and suspension mounting points are where it matters. Always ask for underside photographs — not just a clean side profile.
Mileage matters less than you expect
These are commercial vehicles that spent their life doing short local trips. Service history and corrosion tell you more about remaining life than the odometer does. A well-kept 120,000 km truck can be a better buy than a neglected 50,000 km one.
Check the options you actually need
Air conditioning, power steering, low range and a diff lock are options, not standard equipment. If you need them, specify them; retrofitting later is rarely worth it.
Budget for the whole landed cost
The common mistake is budgeting the vehicle price and treating everything after that as a surprise. Work backwards from your total landed ceiling instead, and decide the vehicle budget from what is left.
Confirm your local rules before you buy
Import eligibility and road registration are separate questions decided by different authorities. Settle both before money moves.
This is general information, not legal or customs advice. Import eligibility and road registration are decided by the authorities in your country, state or province, and rules change. Confirm your own position with your customs broker and vehicle registry before committing to a purchase.